A Room With A View

I HAVE ARRIVED!!! ... in Sri Lanka that is... and am very SAFE

Our departure from Bangalore and arrival in Colombo is rather boring to report on. Nothing of great significance or impressive nature occurred as we packed up, said our goodbyes, traveled to the airport, boarded our plane, hopped over a bit of land and flew gently into a new country.

The country of Sri Lanka, or rather the small taste I have had so far, is delightful! From bright colored trishaws (three wheeled vehicles that are the BEST way to get around) to luscious greenery that covers the entire island to unexpected streams and rivers. It probably doesn't hurt either that our historic hotel (the first one ever built in Sri Lanka) is exquisite with a grand open air entrance, cascading carpeted staircases, outside dinning under palm trees overlooking the breaking blue waves of the sea shore. Our suite (its huge!) is located on the third floor with large windows overlooking the city and ocean. The sun had already set by the time we arrived, but the view was still breathtaking. This is easily one of the nicest hotels I have ever stayed in.

Trina and I (my amazing roommate and kindred spirit) spent the evening sipping on hot foaming cappuccinos, searching for a discounted dinner, walking by the sea side and swapping stories over our complementary drinks. Tomorrow we are off to an early start as we head further south (5 to 6 hours driving time) to our first destination, but I am most excited to watch the sunrise over the ocean. I imagine it will be picture perfect! 

Traveling to Sri Lanka

Tomorrow we fly to Sri Lanka, having been stopped in our tracks by a terrorist attack in Colombo a few days before. I know there are all kinds of news reports (or perhaps no new reports given that the US has very little invested interest in this area) floating around about the escalating violence in this tiny nation but please do not worry. Our team leader, has been living in Sri Lanka with her husband and two children for the past 2 years and would not be taking us into the country unless it was safe. Talking with staff on the ground in Sri Lanka we have been assured that Colombo has returned to a state of normalcy and that areas we are going in the SOUTH of the nation are politically stable.

In recent months the government of Sri Lanka has ordered all foreign agencies and humanitarian groups out of the country in order to make way for their plans to bomb their own people as they work to exterminate the Tamil Tiger forces. The entire country truly is in turmoil as both a physical and religious war are being wages. Freedom of press and religion do not exist and the persecution of believers in the nation are overwhelming. Given the recent events our team feels it is even more important for us to go and serve alongside the local staff encouraging them in the work they are doing.

I have a peace about going to Sri Lanka and the work we will be doing there. Please do not worry about me or our team, we are in good hands.

Bangalore, INDIA - Overview

Bangalore, INDIA: Yes! I AM IN INDIA! [Have you gotten sick of hearing that yet? Hopefully not!]

How did I get to India? A very good question…

When I left the US I never imagined myself in Asia, let alone in India, but like with much of this trip a ‘chance’ encounter led to an entire new set of adventures. Within two weeks of leaving the country, I found myself attending a conference in Turkey where I was introduced to Shelley, an amazing and dynamic woman who I longed to spend more time with. Swapping email addresses we have stayed in contact throughout these past few months and when she emailed me with an opportunity to travel with her to work with a team in South East Asia, I knew I had to go! That was several months ago and now I find myself here in the southern tip of India with a fantastic team of people from the US, working alongside a dedicated group of locals with one common purpose.

Each member of our team has found themselves here through very different circumstances and it is clear that we were all designed to be here working together. Betty, the oldest member of our team has one of the most inspiring stories. At the age of 65 she is still a ball of energy and enthusiasm, traveling to all corners of the world this women simply cannot be stopped. A week before the trip she went to the doctors where they discovered a mass on her lung. Her doctor asked her to return for another test and the findings would determine whether or not she could participate on the team. Her pastor said that she would not be able to go unless she was given a clean bill of health. Returning to the doctors three days later they were mystified to discover that the large mass had vanished. Without explanation she was healthy once again and cleared to travel with the team to India. The team and our ministry would not be the same without her presence here.

Our time in India has rapidly drawn to a close, completing 3 women’s conferences in two different languages in two different locations, interacting with over 2,000 women and spending two other days in ministry. Each of the conferences were powerful in different ways, but none more so then yesterday’s conference at Kolar Gold Field. A once booming gold mining town, the area now stands as a struggling city after the mines closed and the big money pulled out 20 years ago. Many of the residents there live in grave poverty surviving with no work and no food – I don’t know how they do it. Our conference there was our largest one yet, serving over 1500 women in their native language of Tamil. Dancing up front with the children was by far the best part of the day and by the end of the conference I had become best friends with Ashwari, a beautiful little 6 year old girl who crawled up into my lap for the last 2 hours of the meeting. I have been so blessed by the lives of the women in this country and their stories which will break your heart and build your faith. I know this will not be my last time in this country.

Over the past 2 days everyone in our team except for me, has fallen ill. They are in various stages of recovery after some contaminated food or water sent their systems into shock. Having already endured all forms of stomach illness I have been unaffected, thankfully!

Manamah, BAHRAIN - Overview

Yes, I can hear you now. Bahrain? Where is that? I have to admit that on my first whirlwind tour through the Gulf region I also had to look it up on a map. Easily the smallest country in the region, Bahrain is a tiny desert island (don’t get too excited, its not your picturesque white sand beaches and crystal clear waters – sadly) located just off the west coast of Saudi Arabia. Having stopped by once, I headed back for an 8 day stay to spend some time relaxing and with my boyfriend John who is currently stationed there with the US Navy.

In the closest thing to a first world country I had seen in 6 months, I enjoyed going to grocery stores, sinking my feet into lush carpeting and taking real hot showers again. Yes, I am easily pleased!

My time in the Middle East felt more like a dream then reality, but I loved every moment of it! From horseback riding through a dust storm and around the Bahrain fort, to a candlelit rooftop dinner it was amazing. Yes, I was spoiled.

Leaving was hard, but I knew that I needed to get back to work!

Nairobi, KENYA - Overview

I had originally only planned to visit the capital of Kenya once, on my way out of the nation. However, the fickleness of the Indian High Commission provided me with 3 unique opportunities to discover the bustling and slightly overwhelming city. It also gave me a severe test in patience and endurance as I made five 9 hour bus rides on potholed filled ‘roads’ in the dead of night. Each of my trips to the capital was unique and filled with unexpected blessings. Due only to the circumstances surrounding my visits and the vastness of the city, I was not a fan of Nairobi. However, my final journey and weekend adventures redeemed the city.
Visiting my Kenyan classmate from my school program in Uganda/Rwanda, I was overjoyed to be reconnecting with a dear friend.

My final days in the city were jam packed with events and Mbish wasted no time in showing me around and introducing me to more new friends – love it! I think the highlight of my weekend there was being welcomed into yet another wonderful family and our excursion to the Safari Walk. Located in the town of Nairobi, this forested escape of wilderness was most unexpected and reminded me of the Rain Forest Café in Seattle and our earlier Safari trip in Eastern Uganda. Walking around an African zoo in Africa (go figure!) we managed to see every animal but the lions. Hearing this, a park guide came to our rescue and decided to take us on a different kind of tour around the back of the lion area, between the chain link and high voltage electrical fence to where two of the lions were enjoying an uninterrupted afternoon nap in the sun. It was unbelievable – sometimes it pays being a blonde haired white girl in Africa!

Biding farewell to my friend once again and leaving another country I had grown to love was a challenge as always, but I was excited for the next wave of adventures.

Webuye, KENYA - Overview

Webuye, KENYA: During the 10 hour bus ride from Uganda to Kenya I hit my first real moment of fear at the prospect of traveling to a country where I knew no one, had no real plan and was going to a town I couldn’t even locate on a map.

This time overseas has definitely been an exercise in faith, trust and dependence on God. Meeting the grandparents of a friend’s boyfriend at a pool party my first week in Morocco, had led to a discussion about my future plans in Africa and an unexpected contact with a family there. Having exchanged several emails and text messages I had agreed to go and work with them in their ministry for one month. Excited and confident in the weeks leading up to my journey to Kenya, I soon found myself gripped by anxiety and fear as I realized I most certainly was crazy. I mean WHO takes a bus 10 hours to a country they have never been before, to a town that isn’t even located on a map to meet with a family they don’t even have a picture of to do who knows what for God?!?!? Clearly, Me. After a few moments of panic, my tension eased and I rested in the knowledge that God was in control.

Arriving in Webuye (a town so small you would miss it if you blinked), I tumbled off the bus and into the awaiting crowd of boda-boda drivers, all of whom were more then eager to help. I scanned the crowd hoping that the pastors I was coming to work with were actually there waiting for me and would recognize me (not a hard task since I was the only one getting off, the only American and the only white girl!). Thankfully both Eric and his wife Rose were there to meet me. Walking up to them at last, I was hit by a wave of relief and deep peace. There was something special about this family.

Living with Eric, Rose and their 8 children was a joy. I immediately felt at home and a part of their family. Continuing the work of his late father, Pastor Eric heads a large church in town, oversees numerous other churches, runs an orphanage in a neighboring town and has just begun a school for children in the more rural parts of the area. Visiting the orphanage, it was clear that the children there were loved and well cared for both by the local staff and supporters from the States. The children in greatest need were those at the school, so that is where I spent the majority of my time.

Teaching in a developing country is a very unique experience. A four room building housed 6 grades of children. No teaching supplies. Temporary wooden blackboards with holes in them. Desks built with unfinished and un-sanded wood. This was not America!

I loved every moment I was able to spend with the children though. Teaching every subject but KiSwahili, I spent most of my time teaching and loving on the kids at the school. Working with Pastor Eric and Rose, we were able to purchase curriculum for each of the teachers to teach from, paint new full size blackboards in each room and clean the classrooms. The school was been born from a beautiful vision to reach the poor children of the community with quality and affordable education, but as one of the staff working with the ministry stated, “the reality is still far from the vision.”

Please pray for the school, the kids and the teachers. They are currently understaffed, over budget and in need of new buildings so that they can continue to take in new children. On more then one occasion we were scrapping by to provide food for the children, even the simplest of meals, rice and beans were a challenge to come by some days. In a country overcome by corruption at every level of the government and where over 3 million people are facing possible starvation, there are hard times all around.

Personally, life in Webuye were some of the greatest and hardest moments of my trip thus far. Living with a family is wonderful and I truly have become more African then American in my tendencies, but at times the difficulties of life simply become too much. Staying in a cockroach infested room loses its charm quickly as well as going to the bathroom in a hole and bathing with a bucket. Having no control over what you eat, access to electricity and dealing with new health problems wears on you after a time. However, the hardest part was the realization that friends and family back home do not understand. Not that they should, having never been to these places, but for whatever reason the discovery that they truly do not comprehend what I was facing made me feel more alone then ever.

The four weeks in Webuye without internet or reliable electricity provided me with ample time to journal, read and think. Processing through a few more of experiences on this trip and how my view of the world and God is continuing to expand and grow, I was finally able to see a glimpse of what He has been doing in my life. I am always amazed when I see how all the different puzzles pieces of my life start to fall together and I catch a look at the greater vision for my life.

Teaching Sunday School for all the kids of the church each week was a wonderful and life changing experience, as I often found the words I spoke ministering more to me then to those I was teaching. On one particular Sunday I was sharing a story I have heard a thousand times over of Jesus calling His disciples and the sacrifice He asked from each one. To ask them to leave behind their families, friends, support networks, homes, jobs, EVERYTHING, to follow after Him. Trusting Him to be enough, believing that all of their needs would be met and provided for and that in trying times He would carry them through. It was in that moment that I realized in leaving the US nearly 9 months ago with no return ticket, no return date and no definite plans - I had done the same.

If I have learned one thing on this trip, it is the completeness of God’s faithfulness.

Thursday

It’s 10:23AM on a Thursday, a school day. Glancing out my window I watch as three cows methodically make they way across the grassy outcrop behind the house. With sticks in hand 2 barefoot boys follow behind, prodding them forward as the sun grows ever hotter in the light blue skies. These children should be in school.

Everywhere I go now, I am quick to notice the children. The little ones with torn and faded clothing. Those walking barefoot on the rocky terrain for long distances. The ones whose skeletal frames cannot be hidden by the shapeless material that falls over their bruised skin. The street children who spend their days huffing glue and gasoline instead of learning within the classroom. The kids who have never known the comfort of a warm and loving home. These are the ones my heart breaks for the most.

Salmonella

The irony of life never ceases to amaze me.  

Taking lunch with some fellow Americans recently, I realized how enculturated I had become. Justifiably concerned over consuming produce, unclean water and ill-prepared food, the talk around the table turned to what should and should not be taken. Surprised to discover that I eat everything without a hint of concern it was reasoned that I must have grown accustomed to the food overseas.

Without realizing it I had slowly thrown caution to the wind part in the name of cultural sensitivity and part for survival. Beginning in Morocco, I quickly adapted the “eat with a smile and a prayer” mentality that helps one survive most less then suitable eating situations. Visiting families, especially those who are less affluent, has created some very interesting eating scenarios.

Living with local families has also meant eating the native fair, even though it is clear special preparations are usually made for the mzungu (white person). In Kenya the staple foods are Ugali (maize flour mixed with boiling water and stirred until it reaches a stiff dough like consistency), greens (NOT lettuce or anything resembling it), rice, beans and meat (beef, chicken, fish – when available and finances allow). I have also stopped regularly purchasing bottled water and instead just boil and purify the local water. One on desperate occasion I also took water from the borehole (well) and thankfully am still alive and well. I have been blessed and surprised by the overall health I have been enjoying these past few months.

Last week, however, I began to get sick. Not thinking much of it, I treated my symptoms and continued on with life. Several days later I received an urgent email from a friend informing me to destroy the cliff bars that had been sent as they may contain salmonella. As it turned out, the food I held in my hands had indeed been recalled. Tracing back the days, it wasn’t long before I realized that my symptoms lined up perfectly with when I began eating the contaminated food, with strong indications that I may indeed have salmonella. With little to do but wait it out, I cannot keep myself from laughing at the thought that with all the concern over food, it was the American food that was causing problems and not the treacherous local cuisine. Who would have thought?!

Round Trip to Nairobi

A 24 hour trip with 17 hours on the road, the odds are already not in my favor…

As word spread throughout the day of my planned evening departure to Nairobi, the strange and busy city far, far away, concern mounted for the little blonde haired blue eyed American girl. Growing accustomed to the well meaning fuss of those with slightly less adventurous spirits I sat listening quietly with a smile. Undaunted I departed the quiet rural area of Webuye, catching the bus which was clearly running on African time. Always thinking ahead, Mama Rose had prepared mandas (East African doughnuts) by torchlight (flashlight) and packed enough to last the required two days journey. Waiting over an hour the Mudengo family sat with her, refusing to leave until she had safely boarded the bus.

Embarking the coach, a frantic attendant raced to greet the only mzungu (white person, thus incredibly easy to identify) explaining she had been most concerned over my whereabouts and was relieved to see that I was safe.

The journey from the far edge of the Western Province into the heart of Nairobi city was long and arduous with little sleep and thousands of bumps. Often feeling more like a popcorn kernel refusing to pop as it bounces around a pan, then a comfortable ride through the countryside, I arrived safely into town very groggy and well shaken.

Disembarking, I was startled to find an unfamiliar face calling my name. Walking forward seeking to verify information before proceeding, all thoughts were cut short when the all too awake little man began spouting warm welcomes and greetings on behalf of the Pastor who sent him to watch over me. Clearly enthused by the task, we sat safely within the warmth of the bus terminal waiting for daylight to break. News stories spun overhead of Obama (what else would this country, the motherland for Obama’s father, talk about), while my new friend eagerly informed me of all the wondrous aspects of the city, the country and ALL his friends from the States.

As the hour passed and the sun awoke we made our way across the heart of town to the restaurant of a small hotel where a local pastor from Webuye was staying. Being seated quickly by my guardian, he apologetically raced upstairs to inform the Pastor of our arrival. Waiting patiently I sat, trying to adjust to life in a major city. Making friends with the waitress who also happened to be from Webuye, I found myself sipping a complimentary cup of coffee with milk. On a short walk to the bathroom, I was stopped by the well-meaning waitress who inquired into the security of my bag which I had left sitting at the table under the watchful eye of the Pastor who had met me at the bus station. Assuring her that it was fine I continued on my way. Roughly twenty minutes later, this same waitress returned to once again check on my safety (and clearly my sanity) as she grilled me on my connection to this African man I was sitting with, during what would end up being about the only few minutes I found myself without supervision that day. Reassuring her that he was indeed a trusted friend she seemed satisfied, but continued to keep a close eye on my throughout my time there. Joined by Pastor Gideon and his friend John, the four of us ate our breakfasts of cereal with steaming hot milk (completely wrong in every sense of the word breakfast), before heading out to take care of business in the city.

Coming to Nairobi for only one reason, I was escorted to the Indian High Commission to look into a visa. Signing me in and instructing the guards to keep close watch over me (as I am young, female and liable to simply wander off…) I was ordered to wait at the consult until he returned to pick me. Arriving before the offices officially opened, I sat waiting, watching people come and go. An Indian lady soon stood beside me. Growing bored, I began asking her about her hometown in India. “I am from the southern part,” she coolly responded, clearly not intrigued by this young American thing sitting beside her. “From Bangalore?” I pushed harder. Noticeably surprised that I knew anything of Indian geography, she quickly spouted off a series of other southern Indian city inquisitive to discover the depth of my knowledge. [Sufficed to say, she wouldn’t have had to press much farther as I am still relative uninformed on the world of Southeast Asia.] By the time our short conversation ended, I had a new “Indian mother” and a welcome place in Nairobi.

The Indian High Commission proved to be even less agreeable in person then they were on the phone. Waiting in line, I had been casually informed that the office used to be quite friendly, but now everyone was angry. Making my way to the front I discovered that the process was going to be difficult then originally planned with additional paperwork, processing and waiting. I was gruffly instructed to return on Monday. Return? Do you have any idea how many hours it has taken me to get here?!? My mind was racing at the thought of repeating the grueling commute again, but his less than lenient face told me I would find no sympathy here. Stifling my cries of frustration I left the office and made my way back to the friendly guard station. Signing out I decided to wait for my babysitter outside.

Standing patiently people watching for several minutes, I soon found myself a great source of speculation with all heads turning as they passed me. One concerned lady stopped to ask if I needed assistance. I politely informed here that I was waiting for a friend. When that didn’t work, I lied and told her I was waiting for my driver to arrive and pick me up. Seemingly satisfied by this response she bid me farewell and disappeared around the corner. A few minutes quickly became an endless stream of waiting as my already exhausted system was growing faint from standing. Resolved to wait, I remained planted at my post, that is until an unwelcomed stranger began to take a particular interest in me. Nodding his approval my mind raced back to the streets and stares of Moroccan men. Repulsed I turned away and retreated toward the entrance of the building. Refusing to let this man win the battle of wills that had unofficially begun I remain outside with my back to the road and eyes pretending to study the intricacies of the plant before me. Feeling his stares lingering ever longer on my back, I grew disgusted and finally took refuge safely inside behind the guards desk. Time stood still as I waited until my chaperon finally returned.

Apologizing for the delay we made our way toward the Stanley Hotel and the center of town. In this manicured section of town that fell between the Hilton and Stanley Hotels, I found my people, the foreigners. It was also here that I found the only half decent bookstore in the area. Not finding either of the two items I needed, I did manage to walk away with two wonderful books I wanted.

Thrilled by the captive audience, my babysitter walked me up and down the streets of Nairobi giving me a guided tour of landmarks, well-known buildings and the history of everything Nairobi. When that conversation stalled, the ever popular game of compare the countries began. Needless to say, America does not have a staple food that EVERYONE eats daily, nor is there a consistent climate or one main crop! With the sun growing ever hotter, my guide asked if I wanted to rest for a while. Thankful for the opportunity to relax with my mission now complete for the day, I agreed. Pleased, he led me passed what I have lovingly named coffee shop row, to an office building of a friend so we could sit in the waiting room. My entire body screamed in protest as we were led into a stoic brick building that looked unchanged since the 70’s and I was shown to a plain awkward chair.

Rescue came in the form of a call, as my phone rang just outside the door to the office. Excusing myself, I stepped out into the hallway to talk. Exhausted and frustrated by the turn of events at the embassy, it was nice to hear a friendly voice. My boyfriend had called to check in on a brief break from work that day.

Finishing the conversation under the watchful eye of my guardian, I reasoned I was too exhausted and tired of the constant supervision to remain in Nairobi until 7:30 that evening to drive back to Webuye with the other pastors. Instead I asked to be taken to the shuttles (matatus – aka. glorified vans). Through my travels I have discovered that well meaning helpful locals are often harmful to the negotiating process, today was no exception. My guard secured the price (50 shillings higher then it should have been) and waited at my side until the vehicle departed.

Free at last we started and stopped all the way through the streets of Nairobi, finally discovering open road outside the city limits. Engrossed in my new purchase I happily lost myself in the pages of another’s life. Receiving a poke from behind, I cringed as I knew what was coming, the sign to shut the window was silently being passed along. Savoring my last breath of oxygen I begrudgingly slid the window shut. Trying to find joy in the 7 hour drive down the hot dusty bumpy road I focused my energies on the pleasantries of life. It was to no avail, as my mind raced and heart seethed with each passing kilometer. Knowing I was going to have to make the exhausting trip again 3 more times over the next week was not encouraging.

Stopping unexpectedly for lunch, I remain planted by the car, willing our break to be short and our journey to continue without any other unauthorized stops. My desire was clearly not alone as two other women stayed behind as well. Trickling back, our matatu once again filled. Back on the road I found it hard to focus on anything but the slowly disappearing minutes. Feeling no closer to home then when we began I wondered if we would ever reach Eldoret. And then it happened, the all to familiar poke to the back of my exposed arm. Turning undoubtedly to face the threat of another ‘close the window’ sign, I was startled to find a pink note being pushed my way. Unfolding it I found a personal introduction and request for a meeting. Annoyed I slipped the piece of paper into the far pages of my book. Unable to forget the words I began to wonder if it was indeed for me. Nearly turning round to ask, I stopped myself with the sinking realization that it had been intended for me as I was the final person in line of hands it clearly passed through.

Hours later our drive ended, having reached Eldoret. However, I was still far from home. With specific instructions from my guardian back in Nairobi, the driver knew better then to simply abandon me. Intrusting me to the care of another, I was passed off yet again and forced to follow behind him as he wove in and out of the back streets of town toward the taxi stand. 

Reaching the already filled matatu to Webuye, a frantic argument began between the conductors. Before the dust settled back to the ground, the full matatu had been reshuffled and I now found myself seated in the front row. My new self appointed protectorate 'graciously' agreed to pay my fair - in actuality he was using the money I already was forced to fork over and pocketing the extra for himself, what a gentlemen.

The bumpy 2 hour (I think) drive to Webuye seemed unending as light sky turned to blackness and I was finally deposited at the large junction near my house. Walking down the barely visible cracked dirt paths I edged my way home, thankful to be home, safe and back in the quietness of my small town. The DAY was over and I was finished. 

Bed Bugs

Waking up this morning the day began in carnage as I set about systematically taking out the three assailants (aka. Mosquitoes) trapped in the clearly unprotective netting. Having considerably refined my locating and terminating skills these past few months the process took only seconds, but the findings were less than satisfactory as it was clear that they had been taken down post attack, meaning their mission had already been carried out. A bit disappointed I threw back the covers to begin my day, making the worst discovery of the morning. I was not alone. A large (nearly inch long) ant quickly found himself sailing through the air as I decided it was a good time for him to learn to fly off my bed. Thoroughly disgusted I moved toward the exit, but stopped instantly when I was met by the spiky backside of another creepy crawler. Hurling him to the floor I grabbed my shoe and delivered a crushing blow. Good Morning Africa, how I love thee.